A pink whipray and a blacktip reef shark over white sand in shallow water off Moorea

Experiences · Snorkelling

Snorkelling.

No certificate, no schedule. Lagoons that reward anyone who can float. The skill is in choosing the water and respecting it.

Moorea lagoon

Lagoons are alive, not pools. The water drains toward the passes, coral cuts, and standing on a reef kills decades of growth. Fins off the bottom, feet never on coral, and a guide wherever there is current.

01 · Three kinds of snorkelling

Shore, boat,
or drift.

Shore snorkelling, wading out to coral heads from a beach, suits families and first-timers: Temae and Ta'ahiamanu on Moorea, Matira on Bora Bora, the village beaches on Tikehau. Boat trips reach the gardens, the ray sandbanks and the motu: the standard lagoon tour on Moorea or Bora Bora, the Blue Lagoon on Rangiroa, the Lagon Bleu on Fakarava. Drift snorkels ride a gentle current along a channel: the coral garden between the motu off Taha'a is the best known.

The wildlife comes without effort: butterflyfish and parrotfish over every garden, blacktip reef sharks patrolling, rays on sand flats, turtles over seagrass, and with a guide, manta rays at the cleaning stations of Maupiti and Tikehau and the shark wall at Fakarava's south pass on an incoming tide. Match the water to the weakest swimmer in the party, not the strongest.

02 · Reliable sites

Where to go.

03 · Doing it well

The rules.

Buoyancy
Float horizontal. Never stand on coral; sand patches only.One kick can erase decades
Current
Lagoon water drains toward the passes. Ask where it runs before entering. When in doubt, go guided.
Distance
Two metres from turtles and rays; never block a manta's station or dive down onto it.The animals set the terms
Sun
A rash vest beats sunscreen underwater; reef-safe lotion for the rest. Midday burns fastest.
Gear
Bring a mask that fits. Pensions lend the rest almost everywhere; children's sizes are scarcer.Reef shoes for the entries
Feeding
Skip tours that bait sharks and rays. Baiting changes the animals' behaviour.

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