A humpback whale mother with her calf beneath her in clear blue water off Moorea

Experiences · Whales

Whale season.

Humpbacks swim from Antarctic feeding grounds to calve in these warm, sheltered waters every austral winter. Meeting them is regulated, and the regulations are why they keep coming.

Humpback mother and calf, Moorea

From July to November humpback whales rest, court and give birth along the sheltered sides of the islands, having swum thousands of kilometres from polar feeding grounds. Mothers with calves hug calm water close to the reef, which is why encounters here can be so close and why calm behaviour from boats and swimmers matters.

01 · The rules

Licensed boats,
fixed distances.

French Polynesia declared its entire exclusive economic zone a marine mammal sanctuary in 2002. Whale observation needs a permit, issued on nine islands from 20 July to 20 November, between 07:30 and 17:30. There is no observation inside lagoons, bays or passes. At most three permitted boats may be within 300 metres of a whale, at under three knots, and none within 100 metres. Where swimming is allowed, swimmers enter the water outside the 100-metre zone, at most seven per boat including the guide, and nobody approaches within fifteen metres. Encounters are limited to fifteen minutes, less with a newborn.

If a boat chases, crowds or cuts across an animal, it is breaking the law. Ask any operator to show its permit, and choose another one if it will not.

02 · Where

Three islands.

03 · In practice

What to expect.

Sightings
Likely in August to October, never guaranteed. Book two outings rather than one.The second is the insurance
Swimming
Only from a licensed boat, outside lagoons, bays and passes, at the guide's signal, floating still. No chasing, no diving down, no touching.Many of the best moments are from the boat
Conditions
Winter trade winds chop the afternoons. Book morning slots and have a seasickness plan.
Children
Operators set age minimums for swims. Most young children are happier on the boat or the shore.
Cost
Shared outings on Moorea from roughly 8,000 to 18,000 XPF a head; Rurutu operators quote through the pensions.Dated quotes before you book
Operators
Tahiti Tourisme publishes the licensed lists by island each season.

More experiences.