Australs
Rurutu,
the whale island.
Raised coral cliffs full of caves, taro valleys, pandanus hats, and humpbacks close enough to the shore to hear them breathe.
Avera Bay
2,163 people in three villages, Moerai, Avera and Hauti; an hour and a half from Tahiti; no hotels, four guesthouses, no restaurants to speak of, and a winter that drops to 18 °C at night. Air Tahiti's Austral Pass makes the second island nearly free.
01 · Whales with rules
The calmest encounters
in the country.
Rurutu is one of nine islands where whale-observation permits are issued, from 20 July to 20 November, and the rules are strict: no observation inside the lagoon, bays or passes; at most three permitted boats within 300 metres of a whale, at under three knots; no boat within 100 metres; swimmers enter outside that zone, at most seven per boat including the guide, and nobody goes within fifteen metres; fifteen minutes per encounter, less with a newborn. Ask any operator to show the permit. Because the shelf drops fast, mothers and calves rest close under the cliffs, and the island's lookouts let you watch them with binoculars from the land.
The Raie Manta Club ran boats from 20 July to 18 October in 2026; Vaitumu Village takes eight at most. Neither publishes prices. Book through your pension, months ahead for August and September, and plan two outings so a rough-sea day does not cost you the reason you came.
02 · Three Rurutus
Caves, whales,
a summit.
The caves
Ana A'eo near Moerai, nicknamed the Mitterrand cave after his 1990 visit: stalactites and stalagmites that light up when the sun reaches in. Tane'ua Poto in the Tutaerao cliff is another. Free.
The whales
July to late October, from a permitted boat or from the lookouts with patience and binoculars.
Mount Manureva
The island's high point, reached through the taro fields in about three hours with a guide from Vaitumu Village, 6,000 XPF a head, booked the day before. The hardest walk is the cliff trail, Ta Ana Taupe'e, which needs a guide, low tide and good weather, and ends by climbing into a cave called the monster's mouth.
03 · Staying
You eat where
you sleep.
Pension Teautamatea in Moerai has three rooms facing a white-sand beach, takes cash only, and charges about 9,990 XPF single or 15,280 double a night with half board, taxes and airport transfers included. Vaitumu Village, also at Moerai, has seven bungalows, a pool and its own whale, island and sea tours. Chez Heiata and Le Manotel are the other two listings. Dinner is the household's: fish, taro, breadfruit, and earth-oven parcels wrapped in cordyline leaves on special days. Tell your host about dietary needs when booking, not on arrival.
The cultural centre near the airport keeps a copy of the Tiki A'a, Rurutu's ancestor figure, whose original is in the British Museum. The Protestant church dates from 1865 to 1872. The navigator Eric de Bisschop, who tried to sail a bamboo raft from Tahiti to Chile, is buried here. And the women weave: hats, mats and baskets of pandanus, taught by a group of local craftswomen, sold from home. Ask your host for an introduction and buy from the maker.
04 · Know before you go
The practical
part.
- Getting there
- Air Tahiti from Tahiti in about 1 h 30, return from 74,860 XPF in October 2026. The Austral Pass, Tahiti plus two Austral islands, started at about 64,500 XPF in low season for 2026, less than a single return. Sit on the left for the view on approach.Cargo ships carry almost no passengers
- Getting around
- No airport shuttle; pensions arrange transfers. Book a car before you fly, or guided 4x4 tours and quads with Vaitumu Village from 6,000 XPF a head.Trails for walkers, riders and e-bikes
- Weather
- July and August average 24–25 °C by day and 18–19 °C at night, with the sea at about 24 °C; they are also the driest months, 75–87 mm. December to February are wettest.Pack a fleece and a windproof layer
- Water
- A narrow fringing reef, not a lagoon of motu. To'ataratara beach for doing nothing; clear pools along the reef flat at low tide for children. No dive centre on the island.The Australs' only dive club is on Tubuai
- Money
- Cash. Pensions and weavers take little else, and the island has no restaurants to swipe a card in.Small shops in the villages
- From 2027
- A new cargo-passenger ship, Aranoa, built for the Australs, is due to start 13-day loops from Papeete in March 2027, including Rurutu.The Aranui 5 ran four Austral voyages in 2026
05 · How to plan it
Four steps.
- 01
Book the pension months ahead
Four guesthouses and one whale season: rooms go early.
- 02
Two whale outings
The second one is the insurance policy against a rough day.
- 03
A cave walk and a hike
Ana A'eo on your own; the cliff trail and Manureva with a guide.
- 04
Then Tubuai
On the Austral Pass, for the lagoon to go with the whales. A night on Tahiti at each end.
06 · Who it does not suit
Not a lagoon
holiday.
There are no resorts, no restaurants, no dive centre, no nightlife and no tropical heat in July. Whale swims happen in open ocean with swell, and most young children are happier watching from the boat. For travellers who want whales without the Society Islands' boat traffic, and village life where traditions are a calendar rather than a show, Rurutu is the island.
07 · Who it suits
Who it
suits best.
Known for: Humpback whales close to shore, July to October · Raised coral cliffs full of caves · Pandanus hats, mats and baskets · The Tere, a round-island procession in early January · A handful of family guesthouses and no hotels.
Travellers who want whales without the Society Islands' boat traffic, walkers who like caves and taro valleys more than beaches, and anyone curious about village life in a place where traditions are a calendar, not a show. The rules here favour the whales: observation boats are licensed, numbered and kept outside the lagoon, which keeps encounters calm.
Typical stay: 4–5 nights. Enough for two whale outings — so one rough-sea day doesn't cost you the reason for coming — plus a cave walk, a hike and a village day.
08 · Getting there and around
Getting there,
getting around.
- International
- Every international flight lands at Faa'a (PPT) on Tahiti. Air Tahiti's minimum connection is 90 minutes from an international to a domestic flight and 120 minutes the other way; for a 1 h 30 flight south, a night on Tahiti is the calmer plan.1
- Domestic flights
- Air Tahiti flies Tahiti–Rurutu (571 km) in about 1 h 30. Its website showed return fares from 74,860 XPF (≈ US$734) including taxes in October 2026. To combine islands, the Austral Pass (Tahiti + two Austral islands) started at €540.69 (≈ 64,500 XPF, ≈ US$633) in low season for trips from 1 April 2026 — cheaper than a single return. Sit on the left for the view on approach.2
- Cargo ships
- Mixed cargo ships serve the Australs from Papeete, but they carry few passengers — in 2017 the archipelago's sea passenger total was 816 for the year. The Direction polynésienne des affaires maritimes posts forecast schedules, which change with weather and breakdowns. Fly.3
- Cruise ships
- The Aranui 5 cargo-cruise ship ran four 13-day Austral voyages from Papeete in 2026 (the last two leaving on 12 September and 24 October), calling at Rurutu, Tubuai, Rimatara, Raivavae and Rapa.4
- From 2027
- Aranoa, a new cargo-passenger ship built for the Australs, is due to start on 6 March 2027: 198 passengers, 13-day loops from Papeete including Rurutu, and 18 voyages in its first season.5
- Airport transfers
- The airport is in the north, away from the villages, and there is no shuttle. Pensions arrange transfers — Pension Teautamatea includes them in its rates.2
- Rental cars
- Tahiti Tourisme advises booking a car before you fly — the airport is a long way from the villages.6
- Guided tours & quads
- Vaitumu Village rents vehicles and quads and runs guided 4x4 tours through all three villages, Moerai, Avera and Hauti. Guided outings start at 6,000 XPF (≈ US$59) per person (2026), booked the day before.7
- On foot, by bike or on horseback
- Trails cross the taro fields to Mount Manureva or follow the coast, and Tahiti Tourisme lists them for walkers, riders, quads and e-bikes. The harder ones need a guide.8
09 · Where to stay
Which side
of the island.
Moerai. The administrative centre and the largest village (987 people). Pension Teautamatea and Vaitumu Village are both here, and the Ana A'eo cave and the Tutaerao cliff caves are in the Moerai district. Best for: First stays, walking to the caves.
Avera. The second village (770 people), with the taro fields Tahiti Tourisme singles out. Quiet, residential, and the place to see the island's farming up close. Best for: Taro fields, village life.
Hauti. The smallest village (406 people). Little for visitors beyond the coast road and the cliffs — which is the point for some. Best for: Quiet, coastal walks.
10 · Accommodation
Beds,
by budget.
- Pensions & guesthouses
- There are no hotels. Tahiti Tourisme lists four guesthouses for the whole island, which is why whale-season rooms go early. Pension Teautamatea in Moerai has three rooms, faces a white-sand beach and takes cash only. Vaitumu Village, also at Moerai, has seven bungalows, a pool and its own whale, island and sea tours. Chez Heiata has four rooms; Le Manotel is the fourth listing. Examples: Pension Teautamatea, Vaitumu Village, Chambres d'Hôtes Chez Heiata, Le Manotel.9≈ 9,990 XPF (≈ US$98) single and 15,280 XPF (≈ US$150) double per night with half board, taxes and airport transfers included, at Pension Teautamatea (2025 rates, listing updated September 2026)
11 · In the water
Beaches, reef
and open water.
- Whale watching by boat
- Rurutu is one of nine islands where whale-observation permits are issued, from 20 July to 20 November, 07:30–17:30 only. The rules: no observation inside lagoons, bays or passes; at most three permitted boats within 300 m of a whale, at under 3 knots; no boat within 100 m; swimmers enter the water outside that zone, at most seven per boat including the guide, and no one goes within 15 m; 15 minutes per encounter, less with a newborn. Ask any operator to show its permit.10Lagoon
- Whale operators
- Tahiti Tourisme lists the Raie Manta Club's whale outings for 20 July–18 October 2026, and Vaitumu Village's (maximum eight people). Neither publishes prices; book through your pension, and well ahead for August and September.11Lagoon
- Whales from the shore
- The shelf drops fast, and Air Tahiti points to the island's lookouts and observation platforms for whale watching without a boat. Bring binoculars and patience.2Beach
- To'ataratara beach
- The beach Tahiti Tourisme names for doing nothing. Elsewhere the reef flat leaves small, clear pools along the shore at low tide — good for children, not for swimming laps.8Beach
- No dive centre
- Rurutu has no permanent dive club; Tahiti Tourisme describes Tubuai Plongée, on Tubuai, as the only one in the Australs. Bring a mask for the pools; dive elsewhere.12Diving
12 · On land
Ashore,
between swims.
- 01
Ana A'eo (the 'Mitterrand cave')
Culture. In the Vitaria district near Moerai: large stalactites and stalagmites that light up when the sun reaches in. A'eo means 'frightening'; the nickname comes from François Mitterrand's visit in 1990. Free; formerly a place of worship and sacrifice.13
- 02
Ta Ana Taupe'e (the 'lost trail')
Hike. The island's hardest walk, along the cliffs: it needs a guide, low tide and good weather, and ends by climbing into a low-roofed cave called 'la gueule du monstre' (the monster's mouth).8
- 03
Mount Manureva
Hike. The island's high point, reached through the taro fields. Vaitumu Village guides it in about three hours for 6,000 XPF (≈ US$59) per person (2026), booked the day before.7
- 04
Tane'ua Poto cave
Archaeology. One of the accessible caves in the Tutaerao cliff, Moerai district; the name means 'man who shelters in the cave'. Free.14
- 05
Tiki A'a copy, Iareta Moeau cultural centre
Museum. Near the airport: a copy of the Tiki A'a, Rurutu's ancestor-god figure, whose original is in the British Museum. Air Tahiti's list of sights adds the Protestant church (1865–72), the tomb of the kings and the grave of the navigator Eric de Bisschop.2
- 06
Weaving
Culture. Hats, mats and baskets of pandanus are the women's craft here, taught by a group of local craftswomen. Ask your host to introduce you, and buy from the makers.8
13 · Food and shopping
What to eat,
and where.
You eat where you sleep. Pensions serve half board, and dinner is the household's: fish, taro, breadfruit, and earth-oven dishes wrapped in auti (cordyline) leaves on special days. Tahiti Tourisme lists no restaurants on Rurutu, and we found none to name with confidence; there are small shops in the villages and a snack bar at the airport. Tell your host about dietary needs when booking, not on arrival.
Shopping. Pandanus weaving — hats, baskets, mats — and tifaifai patchwork quilts are the island's specialities. The airport has a souvenir shop and a craft exhibition; better still, ask your pension which weavers sell from home. No black pearls are farmed here.
14 · Trip styles
One island,
several trips.
- Families
- Good for curious children over about eight: caves, horses, whales and pools on the reef flat. Whale swims happen in open ocean — the rules keep them out of the lagoon — often with swell; most young children are happier watching from the boat or from the shore.
- Honeymoons
- Only for couples whose idea of romance is a whale's breath at ten metres and a shared dinner table with the host family. No overwater rooms, no spa, no bar.
- On a budget
- Cheaper on the ground than most of French Polynesia — a double with half board and transfers runs about 15,000 XPF a night — but the flight costs more than a week's lodging. Use the Austral Pass to add Tubuai for less than a second return.
- Nightlife
- There is none to speak of. Evenings are dinner, conversation and an early night; the excitement is the Tere in January and the July festivals with horse races on the beach.
15 · Weather by month
Month by month.
January
29° / 23° · sea 27°
Rain about 163 mm. Crowds moderate, prices moderate.
February
29° / 23° · sea 27°
Rain about 197 mm. Crowds very low, prices low.
March
29° / 23° · sea 28°
Rain about 154 mm. Crowds very low, prices low.
April
28° / 22° · sea 27°
Rain about 175 mm. Crowds low, prices low.
May
26° / 21° · sea 26°
Rain about 136 mm. Crowds very low, prices low.
June
25° / 19° · sea 25°
Rain about 104 mm. Crowds very low, prices low.
July
25° / 19° · sea 24°
Rain about 75 mm. Crowds moderate, prices moderate.
August
24° / 18° · sea 24°
Rain about 87 mm. Crowds peak, prices high.
September
25° / 19° · sea 24°
Rain about 85 mm. Crowds peak, prices high.
October
26° / 20° · sea 24°
Rain about 100 mm. Crowds high, prices moderate.
November
27° / 21° · sea 25°
Rain about 110 mm. Crowds very low, prices low.
December
28° / 22° · sea 26°
Rain about 178 mm. Crowds low, prices moderate.
Rurutu airport (Météo-France station 98744002) — our averages of Météo-France monthly records: temperatures 1978–2001 (the station's full temperature record), rainfall 1991–202015. Sea temperature16. Crowds and prices are editorial scores (1 = low, 5 = high). Crowds follow the whale season (permit window 20 July–20 November; the main operator's 2026 season ran 20 July–18 October), the Tere in early January, and school holidays — 62% of pension guests in French Polynesia are French (ISPF 2024). Prices: pensions publish one year-round rate, so the score mostly reflects scarce rooms and Air Tahiti's seasonal fares..
16 · Trip length
How long,
and with what.
Four to five nights, timed for the whales or for the Tere. Rurutu pairs naturally with Tubuai: Air Tahiti's Austral Pass is a closed circuit from Tahiti covering two Austral islands, and it costs less than a single Tahiti–Rurutu return. Do Rurutu first for the whales and the caves, then Tubuai for the lagoon. Allow a night on Tahiti at each end — the Australs' small schedule leaves little slack if a flight moves.
17 · Rurutu vs Tubuai
Rurutu
or Tubuai?
- Getting there
- Rurutu: 1 h 30 from Tahiti; return from 74,860 XPF (Oct 2026)2
Tubuai: 1 h 40; return from 82,060 XPF17 - The water
- Rurutu: Narrow fringing reef, pools at low tide; whales close to the cliffs8
Tubuai: Wide, shallow lagoon with motu; kite and paddle water19 - Whales
- Rurutu: The archipelago's whale island; two listed operators in 202611
Tubuai: Also a permit island; the Australs' only permanent dive centre lists outings12
Verdict. Rurutu for whales and caves, Tubuai for a lagoon to swim and sail in. On the Austral Pass the second island costs less than nothing extra, so most people should do both. The Tubuai guide
18 · Questions
Asked
before booking.
- 01
Can you swim with the whales on Rurutu?
Yes, with a permitted operator between 20 July and 20 November: swimmers get in outside the 100 m boat exclusion zone, at most seven per boat including the guide, and nobody goes within 15 m of a whale. Observation inside the lagoon, bays and passes is banned.
- 02
When is the best time to see whales?
Humpbacks are around from July to late October. The 2026 boat season of the Raie Manta Club ran 20 July–18 October; August and September are the busiest months for visitors.
- 03
How cold does it get?
Not cold, but cooler than the Society Islands: July–August average about 24–25 °C by day and 18–19 °C at night, and the sea drops to about 24 °C. July–September are also the driest months (75–87 mm); December–February the wettest. Pack a fleece and a windproof layer.
- 04
Are there hotels on Rurutu?
No. Tahiti Tourisme lists four family guesthouses, most with half board. In whale season book months ahead.
- 05
Do I need a car?
There is no airport shuttle and the villages are spread out, so arrange transfers with your pension and either rent a car or book guided tours. Tahiti Tourisme recommends reserving a car before you fly.
- 06
Can visitors join the Tere?
Yes — Tahiti Tourisme says to ask your host if you're on the island in the first week of January. The whole island tours by horse, bike and decorated car, with stops for legends and stone-lifting.
Sources · last verified 14 October 2026(29)
- Air Tahiti: Minimum connecting time ↗
- Air Tahiti: Flights to Rurutu (duration, distance, airport, sights, fares) ↗
- Direction polynésienne des affaires maritimes: Archipel des Australes — Atlas 2018 (2017 sea passenger and freight statistics) ↗
- eGlobal Travel Media: Aranui Cruises unveils 2026 Austral Islands trips (departures 14 Feb, 28 Mar, 12 Sep, 24 Oct 2026) ↗
- Cruise Industry News: Aranoa to enter service in March 2027 (24 Sep 2025) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Getting to Rurutu ↗
- Vaitumu Village: Vaitumu Village — activités (whales, caves, 4x4 tour, weaving, Manureva hike) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: What to do in Rurutu ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Pension Teautamatea (Rurutu) — 2025 rates, open all year 2026 (updated 16 Sep 2026) ↗
- Direction de l'environnement (DIREN), Polynésie française: Comment observer les mammifères marins en Polynésie française (rules under Code de l'environnement art. A. 2213-1-4 to A. 2213-1-11; May 2025) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Raie Manta Club — whale watching tours, Rurutu (open 20 Jul–18 Oct 2026; updated 6 Aug 2026) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Tubuai Plongée — 'the only permanent diving club' in the Australs (updated 16 Jul 2026) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: La Grotte de Mitterrand ou la Grotte de A'Eo ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Grotte Tane'Ua Poto ↗
- Météo-France (via data.gouv.fr): Données climatologiques de base mensuelles, Polynésie française (MENSQ_987) — station RURUTU-AERO 98744002; averages computed by Polynesian Compass ↗
- seatemperature.info: Rurutu water temperature — monthly averages (aggregator) ↗
- Air Tahiti: Flights to Tubuai ↗
- ISPF: Recensement de la population 2022 — populations légales par commune et commune associée ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Tubuai ↗
- Météo-France: Fiche climatologique — Mataura 1 (98753001), Tubuai, statistiques 1981–2010 ↗
- ISPF: Le bilan du tourisme de l'année 2024 (Points Études et Bilans n° 1489) — pension guests by market ↗
- Air Tahiti: Air Tahiti Multi-islands Pass — Austral Pass fares (trips from 1 April 2026) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Where are The Islands of Tahiti? (time difference) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Rurutu ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Take part in the Tere A'ati in Rurutu ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Tahitian guesthouses in Rurutu ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Vaitumu Village (Rurutu) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Chambres d'Hôtes Chez Heiata (Rurutu) ↗
- Tahiti Tourisme: Vaitumu Village — whale watching tours (max 8; updated 17 Jul 2026) ↗
Related
Related pages.
Experiences
Whales
Winter belongs to the humpbacks.
Read more
Australs
Tubuai
A farming island with a wide, windy lagoon, eight motu and the site of the Bounty mutineers' fort.
Open the island guide
Culture
Arts
Austral hats and mats are heritage you can wear.
Read more
Plan
When to go
The months that quietly beat the famous ones.
Read more